Thursday, March 1, 2012

Death of a Horse / Mistral's Last Fight



Mistral
(May 18, 1982 - February 9, 2012)
Reg. Arabian #0258947 Kara Kazi
grandson of the famous stallion Sur-Neet

Gradual decline toward an unwanted death, fighting all the way. This sums up the last six months of a dear friend's life.

It wasn't until the later part of his 29th year that Mistral began to lose weight and muscle mass and this was after back to back traumatic episodes of once again being violently hazed and attacked by the younger males. He, who once was the supreme ruler of Ravenseyrie, (even though a gelding) made it plain to Kevin and me that he was ready to give up the wilderness life and take refuge in a more limited environment.

Kevin made a separate 10 acre pasture for Mistral, Zeus (an aged Thoroughbred gelding totally devoted to Mistral) and Silvestre (the two year old colt out of Ciente by Altamiro) who also had been brusquely hazed and attached himself to the elder domestic geldings.


Mistral, Zeus and Silvestre


In late November, shortly after Silvestre was gelded and released back out on the range where he was finally accepted into the rag-tag group of offspring expelled by Altamiro from the family band, we moved Mistral and Zeus over to their winter quarters in the small holding pasture on the east side of the house where Kevin had built a small run-in shed inside the corral area.



And so it came to be that for the past several months Kevin and I had been pampering well the old Polish Arabian gelding (and Zeus, too.) They were fed four times a day, received warmed water, presented with numerous treats and enjoyed knee-deep straw in their shed. When we began to notice Mistral was no longer able to chew the mixed grass hay, we purchased for him ($19 a bag!) a special "complete" processed feed designed for geriatric horses with degenerated teeth. He sure loved that feed!



Given the pampering and specialized feed, I hoped Mistral (who had always been an "easy-keeper) might begin to put some weight back on, but he never did. It was astonishing to see this once well-rounded steed reduced to hair over skeleton and yet continue to be so vibrant and bright-eyed and demanding. His atrophied back showed no movement when he walked. To touch him along his back and rump was like touching something mummified--there was no spring to the flesh and unless I fluffed his hair with a brush, it lay flaccid and unresponsive to changes in weather--yet curiously he never seemed cold. Mostly he seemed indifferent to the weather, taking to his shed when he felt it was appropriate, but also standing out in wet snow if he wanted to as well.

Before his decline, Mistral hated confinement and any manner of pampering, but that changed during those last months and though Zeus would often look longingly off in the distant fields where the free range horses roamed, Mistral seemed completely oblivious to any world outside the holding pasture and shed--excepting, of course, his attention was often riveted on the house as he monitored our whereabouts in anticipation of the next meal or the next treat. We felt bad for Zeus, because in the last days, Mistral mostly ignored him, or when he did interact with his devoted friend, he did so with rudeness.

Mistral was never a warm-hearted fellow, rather, was always the frosty tyrant who didn't much go in for mutual grooming or comforting bodily connections with his herd mates, yet demanded they be nearby. He would never take naps laying down, even during the last days. It occurs to me, only now as I try to write about these matters, Mistral had serious trust issues even among his own kind all throughout his life. I don't know what Zeus saw in him that caused him to be so devoted, perhaps, like me, he admired the strength and beauty of the highly independent (sometimes crazy) Arabian, even though he was so often difficult. And in his own way, Mistral not only accepted me and Zeus and Kevin as his friends, but was equally loyal and faithful to us--if he couldn't bring himself to trust us 100%, he gave us an approximate 95% and we were keen to never abuse it or take it for granted.

Zeus and Mistral

When something wasn't right in his world--at least by his manner of thinking--Mistral coped by pacing. Other horses might crib, or kick, paw or stand in stilted sullenness--not Mistral, he always had to be definitely on the move, even when he had the run of 360 acres, he would take to pacing the fence near the house when it was time for his breakfast. In the last months, he continued to pace whenever it got near to feeding times and adding to that determined walking of the fence line--back and forth, up and down, drone-like--he would pause and stridently whinny to punctuate his desire that we get on with things sooner than later.

The day that he died felt like a normal morning as Kevin and I worked in the feed shed, packing up toboggan-loads of hay and putting together twenty-two pans of breakfast for nineteen equines, however, when Kevin went over to bring Mistral and Zeus their pans (they were always fed first) something was definitely amiss. Mistral was pacing, truly drone-like this time with little recognition that it was time for breakfast, not interested in the pan of special feed at all, not really recognizing Kevin, nor Zeus or even me when I came on the scene. Mistral seemed focused outside the fence, where the others were patiently waiting for their breakfasts--but he wasn't really seeing them either--his attention was beyond all of us, somewhere in a different world, and clearly he was hoping to find a way out of the holding pasture and get to where he thought he ought to be. In addition to this not quite "with us" mental state Mistral was in, he was also becoming ataxic, stumbling and weaving in frightful ways, catching himself from falling into the fence just in time.

We began to herd him away from the electric fence that separated him from the other horses and the open range and tried to direct him toward the corral. Mistral did not seem to recognize us as his human forms who were asking him to move to a specific area, rather he moved around us as if we were some object in the way, like a tree or a fence post. Seeing his friend mentally compromised and moving in such an erratic way was causing Zeus to feel threatened and as a defense, anytime Mistral weaved his way toward him, Zeus would emphatically kick out. Thankfully, before any of those double-barrel kicks connected with Mistral and before he crashed through the electric fence, we managed to get the obviously failing, neurologically compromised gelding into the safer space of the corral. Immediately, Mistral began pacing the circumference of the corral, stumbling into its walls from time to time as he seemed to search for a way out.

As soon as Mistral was in a secure place, we quickly got all the other horses fed. Zeus, however, would not--could not eat. He was getting more agitated and uncomfortable as Mistral continued to behave so strangely. When the other horses finished their breakfasts and moved off to farther areas, Zeus began running the fence line, calling to them--a sound of desperation. His frustration rose the further away they went and he began rearing and bucking making Kevin and I worry that he would soon attempt to jump or barge through the electric fence. We felt the best thing we could do was let him go and hope that the other horses wouldn't horribly haze him as they had done when he was with Mistral. He ran away from his old friend and never looked back.

Standing there with Kevin, watching Mistral pace and weave and stumble, often crumbling to his knees before regaining composure, we both knew (having experienced it before with other beloved equines) this was it--the death march, or in Mistral's case the pace against death. It was extremely difficult to know what to do. I did not want to see Mistral injure himself and suggested we call for the neighbor and ask him to bring his gun. Kevin disagreed, pointing out to me that while it was difficult for us to watch, Mistral was already in the zone, but fighting it all the way, like he fought pretty much everything all his life. Kevin felt to give Mistral an easier end would be denying him his right to face death as a fighter, to see it through in his own way. This might not have been the right answer for every horse who's bodily systems were shutting down in preparation for death, but I knew Kevin was right about Mistral. Knowing what Mistral had really seemed to want was to be out in the big wide open among the young primitive horses we discussed turning him loose--but we stopped short of that. If Mistral wanted his end to be by brutal attack from Altamiro and the others, well that was just too much for us to agree to. While this moment in time was all Mistral's and we desired to support him, our feelings deserved a certain consideration, too...we allowed him to fight death if he wanted to, but within the confines of the corral.

Mistral was in constant movement for over four hours. There was no consoling him, he was not mentally present in our world anymore, the best we could do was carry on with our chores but watch him and step in when it felt right to do so. I remained on the outside looking in, except for twice going in to pick up manure that Mistral passed--perfectly formed, but dark with the rank smell of finality...

It was incredibly mesmerizing to watch him periodically come back to a certain degree of lucidity. At those moments, his erratic pacing and stumbling gave way to a highly collected trot in near perfect 10 meter circles or tight voltes--as if he remembered his days as a dressage champion. Then he would neurologically crumple again, return to the erratic pacing and stumbling. The times he fell to his knees he would hover there, almost yielding to the forces, almost letting himself go completely down--but like some resilient prize fighter, he would groan, pull himself up and continue battling. Mistral always had an indefatigable capacity for energized movement and he was demonstrating this now for the last time. It was just after noon when he went down and stayed down.

Down, but not out. We went to him, he seemed to sense us and know us, though his eyes, glassy and unfocused were elsewhere. After several minutes in the resting sternum position, he lay completely out, his body for the first time all morning, relaxed, his breathing soft. The sky was clear, the sun had warmed our snow-covered world up above freezing and an almost springlike breeze teased Mistral's mane into a light waves. He was somewhat focused now, looking off in the distance from his prone position...what was he seeing? Whatever it was, it completely altered his facial expression, he seemed like a young boy, full of wonder, at ease and full of hope. It was an expression I never saw him wear before--not when he was a three year old youth when we first came to be in each other's lives and not ever during the nearly 27 years we spent together...It was the most tender state of beingness I have ever seen Mistral express and I found myself weeping for being able to witness the beauty of it all.



I thought he was then and there walking that "Rainbow Bridge" and I was so happy for him, that he had made it, that his last moments were so blissful--but somehow, somewhere in that storehouse of indefatigable energy my old Arabian fighter pulled back from the light, his body stiffened, his limbs began erratic thrashing and he attempted to get up. "Because I could not stop for death..." When he could not get up he fell back with a groan and began "pacing" again--this time while laying prone on the snow--his expression looked angry, his eyes unfocused, he was again somewhere in another realm, fighting.

It was awful.

The next five hours where like this, broken by periods of rigid immobility. Kevin took care of all the other things that needed doing in a typical day at Ravenseyrie and I remained with Mistral, thinking each time that his "pacing" stopped, he would go to that blissful place again. Kevin returned to join the vigil, equally disturbed as I...both of us wondering was this really the right thing--to let Mistral move toward his death as a fighter? We both admitted, this was his journey, not ours...we were here to support, but supporting the dying of one whose transition through the various planes of consciousness was so determinedly resisted was disturbingly difficult. How do the Hospice people cope in similar circumstances?

Kevin had a few more chores to complete before nightfall and as he rose to leave, I got up too, telling Mistral I was sorry, but I couldn't watch him fight like this anymore...but before I could rise completely, Mistral picked his head up and though his eyes were glassy and unfocused, somewhere in his in-between realm where he was wrestling with death, I could feel him tell me he needed me to stay. Kevin stayed as well. After that, Mistral's head fell back to the snow and I kneeled by him, rubbing his ears, stroking his cheek, weeping...

The "pacing" ceased and his legs remained rigid, with intermittent spasms. His breathing became less laboured, slower, softer, his eyes, no longer angry, simply looked altogether absent. A few gulps for air, the jaw opening and shutting, one last exhale and off Mistral went to those greener pastures.





Purebred Polish Arabian Gelding, Mistral and Lynne Gerard
The only professional photo ever taken of the two of us back in the days when we were competing in dressage...so long ago, I don't remember the year (perhaps 1991 or 1992?) or the name of the photographer to give the credit to.


Mistral was my first horse, my first equine love--he was difficult, he was a fighter, but he forgave me so many times and was willing to let me be his friend, perhaps, in some curmudgeonly way he even loved me, too.


Mistral enjoys the cooling breeze of Lake Huron while dozing on a summer day with Zeus and the Sorraia Mustangs, Animado and Fada



Mistral received many special treats over the years...gifts for our tyrant King...(appeasements for the god?!)




There was a time when Mistral and the Sorraia stallion, Altamiro had a mutual acceptance of each other and like two kings meeting in neutral territory, they would sometimes meet for amicable conferences.

But over the years, Altamiro became increasingly intolerant of Mistral and their periodic meetings turned into egoistic battles, though even these were generally ended without loss of pride or injury.

One such battle, in the spring of 2010 escalated into definite bloodshed and had Kevin not noticed the fight was different than the prior clashes and intervened, these many surface wounds Mistral sustained may have been just the beginning of the end for Mistral that day. Kevin told me that even after he broke the fight up between them and Altamiro was walking back to his family band, Mistral charged at him, desiring to continue where they had left off, even though clearly (Altamiro was completely unscathed) the old Arabian was losing the battle that day. This was the type of fighter Mistral was--never a quitter, never willing to give up.


Mistral's physical wounds healed, but mentally, he was never quite the same and little by little began to take on the appearance of an aged horse.



Mistral's body was yielding to the forces of nature, but like this old dying maple tree out in the north sector, his spirit refused to give up. In the end, though, the release had to come and the essence of Mistral now mingles with all the elementals of Ravenseyrie and beyond.


Because I could not stop for Death,
He kindly stopped for me;
The carriage held but just ourselves
And Immortality.
--Emily Dickinson


Afterword--
While attempting to support Mistral through the stages of his death, it occurred to me that what we did was similar to the end of life care Hospice workers provide humans. This made me curious...was anything like this being established for animals, specifically horses? Death, like life, is a part of the journey...it is up to each individual to determine what they feel is the best way to participate and support loved ones who are in the process of leaving this world. I googled an assortment of keywords and a couple helpful links came up which I thought I might share for those who are maybe looking for an alternative to euthanasia for your dying animals.



"Hospice recognizes that death is a natural part of the cycle of life, not a failed medical event, and does not have to be feared or avoided; the focus is 'intensive caring instead of intensive care,' without prolonging or hastening death."--Ella E. Bittel and James C. Armer


Further thoughts:

04March12

One nameless reader left a particularly important commentary after reading Mistral's story, and while it is often difficult to receive criticism that is especially condemning, I am taking it as an opportunity to reflect upon the points of contention and to offer additional observations and information for those who find themselves faced with a similar end of life drama.

After Mistral's death, I knew I would do what I always do when processing the joys or the sorrows that I have experienced--I knew I would write about it. However, I seemed faced with a "writer's block" and this story was a difficult one to let unfold. I "went with" the "writer's block" and gave myself the opportunity to fully "go into" the internal recalling of the many experiences Mistral and I had together. Also during this time, it happened that I only told a few people about his passing and did not relay much of the details. Because of how deeply connected I felt to Mistral, our long history together and the way his last day played out, his story is obviously very intimate and emotionally charged, and I suppose I was reluctant to share it, knowing that to the majority of people in my life he was "just a horse".

Something a friend wrote to me (whom I had not yet told of Mistral's passing) served as a catalyst to begin typing the the story, which I sent to him and him alone. His deeply moving reply gave me the courage to publish the story in the Journal of Ravenseyrie...knowing full well that there would be individuals, like the anonymous commentator, who would perceive the events of Mistral's passing from a different concept of what life & death, humans & animals and pain & suffering represent and find fault with how we handled the events.

I chose to share the story and welcome the criticism when it came because I knew, in addition to provoking knee-jerk criticism there would be a good number of people who would actually benefit from reading about how Kevin and I chose to support Mistral's natural death process. End of life and death are inescapable things for all of us and there are times when it is better to open a dialogue about it that encompasses supporting the positive aspects of allowing a natural death process, while also recognizing that euthanasia is just as acceptable depending on the situation and the people and animals involved.

We don't know what caused the ataxia and aimless pacing Mistral experienced, though we know it was one more symptom of an aged body in natural decline and to stress him with a battery of veterinary tests at that juncture seemed to us an needless invasion of Mistral's "space"...and knowing him as we do, having the freedom to keep his own space and have room to move was vitally important. Whether he had a stroke over the night and the ataxic pacing was the after effect, whether his liver was shutting down (also suspect when aimless movement is observed), whether some other factor was the culprit, one thing was undeniable and that was that mentally Mistral was not fully lucid--his mind was elsewhere. Was there pain associated with this mental disruption and physical agitation, both when he was upright and pacing or prone and gesticulating with his limbs for so long? Who could say what a horse feels better than those who have shared such a long history with him?

I've been scouring a wide variety of articles about end of life and death and have gleaned that if there has not been a prior diagnoses of painful illness or injury leading to the decline toward death, dying isn't, on its own, thought to be a painful process--is actually thought to be less painful for the body than birth is. We did not once get the impression that his actions were resulting from pain, though of course it was a question we visited because viewing this type of activity and knowing your horse is dying is not an easy thing to take in and one wants to assure oneself that the right support is being offered.

We believed Mistral was not in physical pain--he may have been mentally distressed or he may have been feeling nervous excitement as a result of the end of life processes he was experiencing. I interpreted his actions as a horse's own fight against death and that it was something he desired to experience in his own way...but as mentally absent as he was, he may have been beyond all that and his body was acting involuntarily on its own...I cannot imagine how one would ever know for certain. If he was feeling pain, it was of the sort that he would meet head on as a rival--he was never the sort of horse to let pain set him back, even if it was something we as humans were repulsed by.

How long do the end stages last before death occurs? It might be "weeks, days or hours" according to one hospice article. In Mistral's case it was less than ten hours.

I have subsequently read that there is an actual term for the type of agitated movement we witnessed with Mistral, which is: "Terminal Restlessness" and it can occur alone or in conjunction with delirium, as seems to be the case with Mistral, and may or may not be a response to physical discomfort or pain, and, depending on each individual situation may or may not be remedied by administering drugs. Each situation is unique and even more difficult to interpret when one is observing a horse rather than a human. One source relayed:

"It has been reported that as many as 10% to 20% of patients experience delirium at the very end of life requiring heavy sedation using narcotics, tranquilizers, or sleeping medications, but that percentage seems high to the author. Looked at from a different viewpoint, many practitioners suggest that delirium should be considered a part of the dying process which does not produce suffering and need not be treated at all unless required for the comfort of the family." [emphasis is mine]

Depending on the situation and the patient, elements of the non-pharmacological approach to coping with "terminal restlessness" and delirium are to "assure a safe, loving, supportive environment and avoid the use of physical restraints, catheterization or other impediments to ambulation" and "encourage activity if a patient is physically able."

This is precisely what Kevin and I tried to provide for Mistral. If the weather had not been so lovely, we may not have been able to support him in the manner we did, but thankfully it really was a "good day to die" as the saying goes. Having secured Mistral in a safe environment where we could monitor and support him, though at times what was going on with him made us uncomfortable (well I think I wrote that "it was awful"--just as it always felt awful when he would pace to relieve anxiety as a young and healthy horse) we truly felt that there was not pain involved for Mistral, that he likely was mentally coping with the unfolding of his death process by physically fighting it--which had been part of his method of coping with certain situations all his life. And we felt allowing him to work through this process, rather than intervening by hastening death with euthanasia was in deference to his desires. This choice was made based on our own perception of life and death and our many years of understanding Mistral and his way of living life.

For other people, who have their own particular relationships with their animals and who perceive life and death according to a different philosophy, the choices they would make in a similar situation would be in keeping with what feels appropriate to them. There is no hard and fast rule on these matters and one set of beliefs isn't more right or wrong than another...each situation is unique for the animals and people involved.

I hope this helps those who would have euthanized Mistral straight-away understand the choices we made to support him through the end of life process and subsequent death.


This is a painting I did of Mistral almost twenty years ago. I had attempted to paint him numerous times and always the result was an attractive grey Arabian, but never "him". This painting, however, captured him perfectly--there is nothing about it I would alter...and when I married Kevin, he thought it so well represented my fiery equine friend that he decided I could not sell the original, and suggested we make limited edition prints of it instead and keep the original for ourselves. It hangs prominently in our home and has even more meaning now than ever before. The verse this painting and Mistral himself inspired says, "Search the Wind for your highest dream, then let your heart fly free...With courage and faith unwavering, be all that you can be."




Tuesday, February 14, 2012

A Week in Portugal / Day Seven



A young Sorraia stallion, of the Coudelaria Nacional, living in freedom along the Rio Tejo


Note: All photos taken by the author, Lynne Gerard, unless otherwise noted.


Traveling with my German friends Hardy and Rose Oelke made for a unique way to see Portugal and offered experiences that were sometimes prearranged and other times a bit more spontaneous. Their many years of visiting Portugal as part of research and conservation efforts for the Sorraia horses means they have a marvelous familiarity with particular regions of the country and I was quite fortunate to be taken to so many fabulous places.

On the last full day of my great Portuguese holiday (October 3, 2011), though the Oelkes had no contacts or acquaintances in Valada, a riverside town in the Ribatejo region, we were adventurously hoping to find someone at the marina willing to take us to an island in the Tejo river where the Fundação Alter Real (formerly the Coudelaria Nacional) pastures young stallions.


After parking the rented Opel, Hardy--never lacking in determination and self-confidence--went in search of someone who might comprehend enough English to assist us in finding a boat charter. The marina appeared to be empty of people, so Hardy walked over to the town center to try his luck, while Rose and I wandered along the riverside.

Hardy Oelke walks by the quiet marina at Valada on the way to town to talk with the locals about hiring a charter boat for a trip on the Tagus.



One of the tile-sided buildings in the town of Valada facing the Rio Tejo


Detail of the same building

An assortment of small riverboats looked artfully attractive in the still waters of the Tejo river at Valada:




The Portuguese people seem very happy to try to help tourists who do not speak their language and Hardy has an earnest, forthright way of making himself comprehendible, a skill that served us well many times over. After several exchanges with locals in town, Hardy learned that there was a woman with a tour boat business that was currently docked here, but it was not certain that she was presently on site.

Hardy located the Ollem Turismo tour boat and to our good fortune Madalena De Mello Viana (who spoke fluent English) was aboard. After discussing what we had in mind, a deal was struck and in short order we found ourselves boarding a smaller vessel that Madalena adeptly piloted away from the dock and out to the middle of the mirror-like Rio Tejo.


Hardy Oelke and Madalena de Mello Viana make arrangements for chartering a boat ride on the Rio Tejo


And down the still waters of Rio Tejo we went!


Our wake briefly disrupts the mirror-like image of the Tejo on a hot October day
(Photo: Rosa Oelke)


The Rio Tejo (Tagus in Spain) is the longest river in the Iberian Peninsula beginning its flow after first tumbling down the Albarracin mountains in Spain, crossing gracefully through Portugal and emptying out into the Atlantic Ocean at Lisbon. Both countries have a long, poetic relationship with this majestic river and it continues to enchant and inspire authors, painters and musicians, with an especially rich offering of the arts in Lisbon. Though my little boat ride was rather short and focused on getting to just one destination, there are many opportunities for more elaborate cruises up and down the 1000+km of this impressive waterway.

Valada from a distance and closer up


A large estate on the bank of the Rio Tejo

It was another searingly hot day without even a puff of a breeze for relief, so it was quite splendid moving at a high speed out there on the Rio Tejo. Here and there Madalana would slow to point out some place of interest or direct our eyes to a bird on the shore and in less than a half hour (by my guess) we were pulling the little boat up onto the sandy beach of a 54 hectare island referred to as "Potril da Azambuja".

Madalena de Mello Viana our guide to the shore of Potril da Azambuja


Madalana stayed with the boat while Hardy, Rose and I climbed up the bank with great anticipation, for it is here where yearling colts bred at the Fundação Alter Real are sent to live a semi-wild existence until they reach the age when saddle training commences. There is a caretaker who boats to the island on a daily basis to check on the horses and bring extra feed as needed, but with the exception of the occasional visit by photographers and other interested parties, these Iberian steeds are left to themselves to live according to the natural rhythms of their wilderness landscape.

Iberian hoof-prints in the sand

This island of bachelor horses was pretty special place for me to visit and gave me an appreciation for the experience of freedom the breeders provide the young stallions for several years before being brought back to the world of human exploitation, box stalls, restricted movement and imposed routines. Having experienced here at Ravenseyrie the way this type of autonomy for a group of young horses in a wilderness setting facilitates independence, pride, intelligence, hearty constitutions, sure-footedness and important equine social skills, I can vouch for how horses who have lived in this way have an enhanced essence about them that if respected and appropriately channeled can remain vibrant even when they are brought into a more traditional horse-keeping setting.

A young Sorraia stallion dozing along the Tejo river, noble looking even as he sleeps


I don't know how many young stallions were living on this island during the time I was there, but of those I saw, there were a few groups hanging out together in shaded areas while others were scattered over the dry grassland searching for tidbits to eat.


Some of the young stallions were in the shade...





...others grazed in the hot sun, along with the egrets




Lusitano, Alter Real, Anglo-Arab and Sorraia colts share the island as one herd of bachelors


I do not know if this fellow is a Lusitano or a "lobo" black grullo Sorraia like our own Fada and Interessado here at Ravenseyrie...

These semi-wild youngsters were very accepting of our presence among them on their private island and a cluster of the lads were curious enough to approach me and make my acquaintance, which I always take such great delight in!

A greeting from a Sorraia colt!

Author Lynne Gerard makes the acquaintance of a young, semi-wild Sorraia stallion on the island known as Potril da Azambuja in the Rio Tejo
(photo: Rosa Oelke)

Hardy, Rose and I each wandered to different vantage points to look for the Sorraia colts and take our photos, though we didn't travel too far away from where we had left Madalena waiting in the hot, humid autumn heat...nor did we stay too long after spotting a good number of Sorraia horses-- though if I could have been left there all day and fetched in the evening, I would have easily lost myself in just hanging out with these fabulous horses.

Hippologist Hardy Oelke photographs Iberian horses on Portril da Azambuja on a very hot October day...


...as does the author of the Journal of Ravenseyrie, Lynne Gerard

(photo: Rosa Oelke)


Because I feel much more at home among free roaming horses and the wilderness than I do around well maintained stables and highly groomed saddle horses, both on the island in the Tagus and in the Vale de Zebro I felt a longing to more deeply connect with the horses and the land (through enhanced interaction)...until at least I could finally board the jet that would take me back home to my own free roaming horses and spectacular landscape ...but this was not within the scope of this particular trip to Portugal.


We could easily imagine the names of these two colts are "Hot" and "Humid"




I am certain Hardy was aware that while I truly enjoyed all the people and places he had shared with me, I was overall homesick and as a rather cloistered Canadian unaccustomed to travel, I was definitely overwhelmed by so many wonderful things to see and experience in Portugal. Perhaps he knew that offering to take me back to the Vale de Zebro later that day would be just the grounding balm my wilderness soul needed? (I think the Vale de Zebro is a balm for Hardy's soul, too!)

And so it was that we were once more hiking the terrain of the Vale de Zebro hoping to see again the family bands of Sorraia horses and maybe even sight the two bachelor colts who thus far we had not come upon on our prior visits.

First we were able to locate one family band shading themselves in the woodlands.


And then we found another group seeking a relative coolness (it was probably +30°C in the shade) provided by the Cork Oak and Stone Pine trees.



Hardy began hiking down one of the valleys while Rose and I took a higher service road where an occasional, blessed puff of a breeze helped to cool and dry our sweaty brows. And then, like a mirage, I was sure I could see some horses ahead and said to Rose..."I think the bachelors are here!"


We continued to walk closer and sure enough, the two colts were dozing in the shade, head to tail fashion, swishing flies off each other and looking pretty comfortable.


Without sharply shouting, I called down to Hardy that the bachelors were up on the road, and as he began to make his way up the hill to join us, I took photo after photo after photo.

At first those dozing young stallions were unaware of humans approaching, but they soon detected us. This series of photos shows how they reacted, by first gathering information regarding our intentions and then feeling the urge to move away from us--yet too curious to break into a full flight retreat.


These handsome colts (both born on the preserve and naturally expelled from the foundation family band) took my breath away! I was SO happy to see these guys--they were the only horses in the Vale de Zebro I hadn't yet been able to "meet". It was an exciting episode in an already terrific day of photographing Sorraia horses!



The boys were once again proudly standing their ground when Hardy gained the road vantage and began taking his own series of photos. A bit of time was spent with us marveling over these exquisite colts as they quietly appraised us. I believe if we had decided to sit nearby in the shade, these young, wild stallions would have once again taken up relaxed, companionable positions and resumed their late afternoon nap without feeling disturbed by our presence among them. But there was one more group we were hoping to see before evening time and Hardy suggested we remain on the road and stride purposefully toward the bachelors to stimulate them into fleeing (Hardy prefers the Vale de Zebro Sorraia horses have as little contact with humans as possible and so discourages making any deliberate connection with them beyond a certain point.)

This next series of photos shows what the colts thought of such a palpable shift in intention:


The colts left the road and ran up a hill to hide in the brush where they then watched us pass by.


We eventually left the road as well and went over the next hill and the next and the next, hoping to spot the other small family group, but finally decided to call it quits and return to the car so we could be sure to get back to town before the shops closed. There was a shoe store in Almeirim where Rose had hoped to purchase a pair of boots (most everything is incredibly inexpensive in Portugal) and I wanted to poke around in an antique shop to see what aged souvenir I might find to bring home for Kevin.

While Rose tried on various styles of hiking boots, I was delighted to find an old wooden wine box caddy in the antique shop which I knew (along with my bottle of wine from day six) would be just the perfect gift for Kevin as well as an authentic cork hewn from a Cork Oak branch.


We then walked over to the O Forno restaurant for my last dinner in Portugal where another fine meal was enjoyed while Hardy, Rose and I reflected on the many fortunate experiences of the past week. With great anticipation of heading home to Canada and Ravenseyrie and Kevin in the morning, I put my wine-mellowed mind and weary body to bed.

I will write one more journal entry (only after a few updates on what has been happening this winter at Ravenseyrie!) summing up my thoughts on what this trip to Portugal meant to me, as well as sharing a little about the difficulties this "unfrequent flyer" experienced while trying to catch all my flights home.